99% Invisible 99% Invisible

100 Objects #18: Hair Relaxer

Sep 18, 2026 · 35m

Summary

This episode explores the history of chemical hair relaxers, tracing their evolution from survival tools for enslaved people to a major industry that built Black wealth. It examines the tension between assimilation and self-empowerment, highlighting key figures like Madam C.J. Walker and George Johnson, who reinvested profits into the Black community. The narrative also covers the political significance of the Afro during the Black Power movement and the subsequent return to straight hair driven by workplace discrimination. Finally, it addresses recent studies linking relaxers to uterine ca…

Topics discussed

Instagram teen account safety features AT&T Business reliability for small businesses Visiting Monica's Hair Salon in Brooklyn Personal history with chemical relaxers Health concerns and class action lawsuits Introduction to hair historian Lori L. Tharps African hair traditions and the impact of slavery Enslaved people's innovation and economic power Madam C.J. Walker and the hot comb era Garrett Morgan's accidental discovery of lye George Johnson and the commercial relaxer market Johnson Products' community reinvestment and FTC regulation The tension between assimilation and wealth Sponsor: Claude AI for workflow and thinking Sponsor: Sonos home sound systems Sponsor: Quince wardrobe staples Sponsor: Toyota trucks for adventure The Afro as political protest in the Black Power movement Workplace discrimination and the return of straight hair Peak straight hair culture in the 80s and 90s The rise of the natural hair movement Scientific links between relaxers and cancer Systemic racism and the cost of assimilation Credits and production team Sponsors: Discover Card and Toyota Sponsor: California Closets
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